If I ever win the lottery, I already know where I’m retiring: Cefalù, Sicily.
There are places you visit because they are famous, places you visit because someone recommends them, and then there are places that somehow find their way into your heart when you aren't expecting it.
For me, that place was Cefalù.
Before our trip to Sicily, I had never even heard of this little coastal town. Then I came across a photograph of boats bobbing in the harbor, colorful old buildings rising behind them, and the sea stretching beyond. Something about that picture stopped me. I knew immediately that I wanted to see it for myself.
And I'm so glad I did.
Located on Sicily's northern coast along the Tyrrhenian Sea, Cefalù sits beneath the dramatic limestone cliffs of La Rocca. Its historic center is a beautiful mixture of medieval lanes, stone buildings, little shops, restaurants, churches, and fishermen's homes overlooking the water.
But what I remember most isn't any one monument.
It's the feeling of being there.
A Welcome Change After the Amalfi Coast
By the time we reached Cefalù, I had already spent days walking up and down the steep streets of some of Italy's most beautiful coastal towns.
I loved the Amalfi Coast. I loved Cinque Terre. But after all those hills and stairs, Cefalù felt like a breath of fresh air.
It had everything I loved about the other Italian coastal villages—the old buildings, narrow streets, beautiful water, charming shops and restaurants—but it felt much easier to explore on foot.
I could wander through the historic center without feeling as though I had just completed a marathon.
That alone may have been enough to make me love it.
But then there was the sea.
The Photograph That Made Me Want to Go
When my daughter and I were deciding where we wanted to go during our time in Sicily, I came across a photograph taken from one of the little streets overlooking the water.
It showed exactly the kind of scene I had always imagined when I thought about Sicily—small fishing boats, weathered buildings, laundry and balconies, and the sea just beyond.
That photograph convinced me.
My daughter and I took turns choosing the places we wanted to visit, and on this particular stop, she graciously gave in to me.
I'm very glad she did.
Cefalù turned out to be one of those places where simply walking around was part of the experience.
Wandering the Streets of Cefalù
One of my favorite things about Cefalù was getting lost in its narrow streets.
The historic center is filled with little lanes that wind toward the sea. Some seem almost impossibly narrow, and every turn brings another glimpse of something interesting—a tiny doorway, an old balcony, flowers spilling from a window box, or a glimpse of blue water at the end of the street.
And, of course, you have to watch for cars.
There isn't always much room between the buildings, the parked cars and the occasional vehicle trying to make its way through.
These are the kinds of streets where I could happily spend an afternoon without having anywhere else to be.
There were little shops tucked throughout the historic center, along with restaurants, cafés and storefronts that seemed to invite you to slow down and look around.
It didn't feel as though I was checking sights off a list.
I was simply enjoying Cefalù.
Cefalù's Medieval Wash-House
One of the more unusual places we came across was the Medieval Wash-house, known as the Lavatoio Medievale.
Tucked below street level on Via Vittorio Emanuele, the wash-house is fed by the Cefalino River, whose water eventually flows into the sea. The present structure dates through several periods of rebuilding and restoration, and the site still preserves the stone basins and 22 cast-iron spouts through which the water flows.
Walking down the worn stone staircase into the wash-house felt like stepping into another time.
It is easy to imagine the women of Cefalù gathering here to wash clothes, using the flowing water of the Cefalino River.
Today it is one of the town's most interesting historic sights, but what makes it special to me is that it isn't simply a beautiful old building. It gives you a glimpse into everyday life in Cefalù generations ago.
A Taste of Sicily
Of course, no trip to Sicily would be complete without eating—and one of our first stops in Cefalù was a local gourmet shop where we sampled Sicilian specialties and a variety of wines.
I loved these kinds of stops during our trip because they felt so much more personal than simply sitting down at a restaurant.
There were foods to sample, local products to discover and, of course, plenty of things that made me wish I had an extra suitcase.
And then there were the little details that made Cefalù feel so wonderfully Sicilian.
I couldn't resist taking a photograph of these restroom signs.
Sometimes it's the smallest things you remember.
Life on the Streets
One of the things I loved about Cefalù was how much everyday life seemed to spill right out onto the street.
I remember seeing a little truck loaded with fresh fruits and vegetables. It looked like a farmers market on wheels.
The vendor would stop along the street, fill bags with produce and deliver them directly to customers.
In a town where houses and storefronts seem to open right onto the street, it felt completely natural.
I remember thinking that this was one of the things I loved most about traveling in Italy. Ordinary moments can feel like part of the experience.
A fruit seller making deliveries.
Someone chatting from a balcony.
A fisherman coming in from the harbor.
A tiny shop tucked into an old building.
A narrow street ending at the sea.
Those are the moments that stay with you.
Don't Miss Cefalù's Cathedral
Of course, Cefalù has its share of major attractions, and the Cathedral is impossible to miss.
The Cathedral of Cefalù, or Basilica della Trasfigurazione, dominates Piazza del Duomo beneath La Rocca. Commissioned by Roger II in 1131, it is one of Sicily's great examples of Norman architecture and forms part of the UNESCO-listed Arab-Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalù and Monreale site.
The cathedral is one of those places that reminds you just how much history is packed into this little seaside town.
And then there is La Rocca towering above everything.
If you have the time and energy, climbing La Rocca provides spectacular views over Cefalù and the Tyrrhenian Sea. The rock rises dramatically above the historic center and has been an important part of Cefalù's history for thousands of years.
I'll admit, though, that after all those hills in Italy, I was perfectly happy enjoying the views from below.
Would I Go Back to Cefalù?
Absolutely.
In fact, Cefalù was one of the biggest surprises of my trip to Sicily.
I had never heard of it before planning the trip, and it ended up becoming one of the places I talk about most when someone tells me they're planning to visit Sicily.
I went there because of one photograph and I left already imagining what it would be like to return.
And yes, If I win the lottery, I'm moving to Cefalù.
Maybe I'll have a little apartment overlooking the sea.
Maybe I'll walk down to the harbor every morning, stop for coffee, wander through the old streets and buy fresh fruit from a little market truck.
And maybe I'll never complain about walking up a hill again.
Well...
I probably will.
But at least I'll be doing it in Sicily.
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