November 1, 2016

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Perched on a small peninsula overlooking Malta’s beautiful Grand Harbour, Valletta is one of those cities where history seems to be everywhere you look.

Built by the Knights of St. John beginning in the 16th century, Valletta is filled with honey-colored stone buildings, steep streets, ornate balconies, churches, fortifications and incredible views of the harbor below. The historic city is compact enough to explore on foot, which is exactly what we did.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Exploring Valletta on Foot

One of my favorite things about Valletta was simply walking through the city.

You don't necessarily need an elaborate itinerary here. Around almost every corner you'll find something interesting—a narrow side street, an old stone building, a colorful enclosed balcony, a small café or another glimpse of the harbor.

Valletta's historic center is also remarkably compact considering how much there is to see.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

The city is built on hills, though, and some of those streets are steep!

At one point we watched a couple of workers hauling concrete up and down the steps with a wheelbarrow. After seeing that, I joked that there was no reason everyone in Valletta shouldn't have amazing legs.

It was one of those ordinary little moments from a trip that I still remember.

Upper Barrakka Gardens and the Grand Harbour

One of the places you definitely don't want to miss is the Upper Barrakka Gardens.

Originally created as a private recreational area for the Knights of the Order of St. John, the gardens are now a peaceful public space high above the Grand Harbour.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

The gardens themselves are lovely, but the real reason to come here is the view.

From the terrace you can look across the harbor toward Malta's historic Three Cities—Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla) and Cospicua (Bormla).

It is one of the best viewpoints we found in Valletta and a wonderful place to stop for a while after walking the city's hilly streets.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

The Saluting Battery

Just below the Upper Barrakka Gardens is the historic Saluting Battery.

Cannons have been fired from Valletta's fortifications for centuries, and the battery continues the tradition with ceremonial gun firings.

Even if you aren't there for a firing, the location alone is worth seeing. Sitting high above the Grand Harbour, it offers spectacular views of the water and the fortified cities across the harbor.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Lower Barrakka Gardens

While the Upper Barrakka Gardens are best known for their sweeping views over the Grand Harbour and the Saluting Battery below, the Lower Barrakka Gardens offer a quieter place to enjoy Valletta's waterfront scenery.

Located farther along Valletta's eastern side, the gardens sit high above the Grand Harbour and are surrounded by the city's historic fortifications. From here, there are beautiful views across the water toward the Three Cities, as well as Fort Ricasoli and the entrance to the Grand Harbour.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

One of the most recognizable features of the gardens is the neoclassical monument to Sir Alexander Ball, a British naval officer who became Malta's first Civil Commissioner. With its columned design, the monument almost looks like a small Greek or Roman temple and makes the Lower Barrakka Gardens easy to distinguish from the Upper Gardens.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta's Streets, Shops and Architecture

Much of the fun of Valletta is found between the major attractions.

The streets are filled with details that are easy to miss if you're rushing—statues tucked into niches, coats of arms carved into stone, fountains, old doorways and the colorful traditional Maltese balconies that seem to hang over the narrow streets.

You'll also find plenty of cafés, restaurants and small shops mixed among the historic buildings.


Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta feels historic without feeling like a museum. People are going about their everyday lives surrounded by buildings and fortifications that have been standing for centuries.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

St. Paul’s Shipwreck Church

Tucked along the streets of Valletta is the Collegiate Parish Church of St. Paul’s Shipwreck, one of the city's oldest and most important churches. Its history dates to the 1570s, although the church standing today was largely rebuilt beginning in 1639. 

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

The church commemorates one of the most important events in Malta's religious history. According to the Acts of the Apostles, St. Paul was being taken as a prisoner to Rome when his ship was wrecked off Malta around A.D. 60. Tradition holds that he remained on Malta for about three months, and his time on the island became deeply intertwined with Malta's Christian heritage.

The outside of the church is fairly understated compared with what awaits inside. The interior is richly decorated with gilding, paintings, sculpture and elaborate architectural details.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Walking is one of the best ways to explore Valletta itself. The historic center is relatively compact, although the hills and stairs can make a day of sightseeing more strenuous than the distance might suggest. Comfortable walking shoes are a very good idea.

Valletta is also Malta's main transportation hub, making it fairly easy to reach other parts of the island by public bus.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

If you're visiting the Three Cities across the Grand Harbour, harbor ferries and traditional water taxis can be a much more scenic way to cross than traveling around the harbor by road.

Because fares, routes and schedules change, I recommend checking current transportation information shortly before your trip rather than relying on older prices.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour


We watched a couple of guys use a wheelbarrow to haul concrete up and down these steps.  No reason everyone here has amazing legs.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour


Valletta After Dark

If you're staying nearby, don't assume you have seen everything once the sun goes down.

Valletta and the Grand Harbour are especially beautiful at night.

We returned to the area around the Saluting Battery and I took several photos overlooking the harbor. With the lights reflecting across the water and the illuminated fortifications in the distance, the entire harbor had a completely different feel than it did during the day.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

This ended up being one of my favorite views of Valletta.

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Valletta, Malta: Exploring the Historic Streets and Grand Harbour

Things to Know Before Visiting Valletta

Getting to the ferry: Valletta sits between two harbors, and the ferry can be one of the easiest—and prettiest—ways to get into the city. Ferries connect Valletta with Sliema on one side and the Three Cities on the Grand Harbour side. The Three Cities ferry arrives at Lascaris Wharf, directly below the Upper Barrakka Gardens.

If you're coming from the Three Cities, don't let the huge fortification walls above you make you think you have a terrible climb ahead. The Barrakka Lift connects Lascaris Wharf with the Upper Barrakka Gardens, about 58 meters above. The ride takes only about 23 seconds, and the ferry landing is directly across from the lift. A valid ferry ticket currently includes use of the Barrakka Lift on the same day.

If you're staying in Sliema: There is a separate ferry between Sliema and Valletta, so you don't necessarily need to take a bus or taxi around the harbor. Ferries generally run at 30-minute intervals, although schedules vary by season, Sundays and holidays. Check the current timetable before heading out.

Buses are one of the easiest ways to see Malta: Valletta is Malta's main bus hub. The Valletta Bus Terminal is just outside City Gate near Triton Fountain, so it's easy to find after exploring the historic center. From here, buses travel to destinations throughout Malta, making Valletta a convenient base even if you don't rent a car. There is also a staffed sales office and ticket machines at the terminal.

This was one of the things I liked about Malta—you can see quite a bit of the island using public transportation rather than worrying about driving and parking.

Expect hills and stairs: Valletta looks compact on a map, and it is, but don't underestimate the hills. Some streets drop steeply toward the harbors and include long flights of steps. Wear comfortable walking shoes and expect to do some climbing.

You won't have trouble finding food: Valletta has everything from small cafés, bakeries and casual restaurants to more upscale dining. You'll find pizza, pasta, sandwiches and familiar fast-food choices, but I would also make a point of trying some Maltese food while you're here.

Look for traditional dishes and snacks such as pastizzi, flaky pastries usually filled with ricotta or peas; ftira, a traditional Maltese bread often served with savory fillings; rabbit dishes; fresh seafood; and other Mediterranean-inspired foods. Valletta is a good place to try local cuisine without having to seek out a formal restaurant.

Republic Street and Merchants Street are good places to start: These are two of Valletta's main streets and are lined with shops, cafés, restaurants and historic buildings. They are also much easier walking than some of the steep streets running down toward the water.

Don't skip the side streets: Some of my favorite parts of Valletta weren't necessarily famous attractions. Wander away from the main streets and look for the colorful Maltese balconies, old doors, statues, tiny shops, stone staircases and architectural details. Valletta is one of those places where simply walking around is part of the experience.

Give yourself time for the Upper Barrakka Gardens: Even if you aren't particularly interested in gardens, go for the view. From here you'll have a beautiful panorama across the Grand Harbour toward the Three Cities, and the Saluting Battery is directly below.

Stay after dark if you can: Valletta and the Grand Harbour take on a completely different look after sunset. We went back to the Saluting Battery area at night, and the lights across the harbor made it one of my favorite views of the city.

You really don't need a car to explore Valletta: Between walking, buses, ferries and the Barrakka Lift, Valletta is particularly easy to visit without driving. In fact, with the narrow streets, pedestrian areas and limited parking, public transportation is often the easier choice.

Check current schedules before your trip: Ferry schedules, bus routes, fares and operating hours can change. Instead of putting prices in this post that may eventually become outdated, I recommend checking the official transportation websites shortly before your visit.

Malta Public Transport – routes and timetables

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