Southern Blue Traveler

August 19, 2017

Visiting the Bridges of Madison County, Iowa: A Road Trip Through Movie History


A scenic road trip through Iowa, covered bridges, and the story that made them famous

Sometimes the best travel discoveries are the ones you didn't plan very far in advance.

My sister and I were on our way home from a road trip to Minnesota's North Shore when we realized our route would take us through Iowa on our way back to Arkansas. Since we were already passing through the area, we decided to make a detour and see if we could find the famous Bridges of Madison County.

I had always known about the bridges because of The Bridges of Madison County, the novel by Robert James Waller and the movie starring Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep. But seeing these historic bridges in person was something entirely different.

And as it turned out, the bridges weren't the only surprise.



Iowa Was a Pleasant Surprise

I'll admit that Iowa wasn't a destination I had been particularly excited about. I was expecting miles of farmland and cornfields—and there certainly were plenty of both.

But Iowa surprised me.

The countryside was beautiful, especially with everything so green. Rolling farmland, country roads, fields stretching toward the horizon, and little pockets of historic scenery made the drive much more enjoyable than I expected.

Of course, traveling through the eastern part of the state meant plenty of cornfields and farms, but there was something peaceful about it. It felt like the kind of landscape where you slow down and actually enjoy the drive.

And then came the search for the covered bridges.



Finding the bridges is part of the adventure.

We spent about two hours driving around Madison County looking for the bridges. Some of the roads took us deep into the countryside, including plenty of gravel roads winding through farmland.

Today, visitors can use the official Covered Bridges Scenic Byway and the Madison County Chamber's bridge map to plan their route, but I still think there's something fun about seeing these bridges as part of a scenic drive rather than simply checking them off a list.

Madison County's historic covered bridges date back to the 19th century, and several of them became famous after appearing in The Bridges of Madison County. The bridges are scattered throughout the countryside around Winterset, making the journey between them part of the experience.

Here are the bridges we found along the way.


Imes Covered Bridge


The Imes Covered Bridge is one of the oldest remaining covered bridges in Madison County.

Built in 1870, the bridge is 81 feet long. It wasn't always where it is today. Originally located over the Middle River west of Patterson, it was moved in 1887 to Clinton Creek southwest of Hanley. In 1977, it was moved again to its current location just east of St. Charles, where it crosses a natural ravine.



The bridge was renovated in 1997.

What I found especially interesting was learning that these bridges weren't necessarily built to last forever in one particular spot. Some were moved when roads, communities, and transportation needs changed.





Holliwell Covered Bridge


The Holliwell Covered Bridge is one of the most impressive of the group—and it also has an important connection to the movie.

Built in 1880 by Harvey P. Jones and George K. Foster, Holliwell is 122 feet long, making it the longest of Madison County's historic covered bridges.

Unlike some of the others, Holliwell remains in its original location over the Middle River southeast of Winterset.







It was renovated in 1995 and was featured in The Bridges of Madison County.

Standing there, it was easy to understand why filmmakers were drawn to this part of Iowa. The setting has that unmistakable old-fashioned country atmosphere that photographs beautifully.



Cutler-Donahoe Covered Bridge


The Cutler-Donahoe Covered Bridge was built in 1870 by Eli Cox and measures 79 feet long.

One of the things that makes this bridge interesting is that it has been moved from its original location. It was originally located over the North River near Bevington before being moved to Winterset's City Park in 1970







Cedar Covered Bridge


The Cedar Covered Bridge has perhaps the most emotional history of all the bridges.

Built in 1883 by Harvey P. Jones and George K. Foster, Cedar Bridge was 76 feet long and was the last of Madison County's covered bridges to remain open to vehicles.

It was originally built over Cedar Creek north of Winterset and was moved to its current location in 1921.

The bridge also has an important connection to The Bridges of Madison County. In Robert James Waller's novel, Cedar Bridge is where Francesca Johnson goes to meet Robert Kincaid, the photographer. The bridge also appears on the cover of the novel.

Sadly, Cedar Bridge was severely damaged by arson in 2017.

But there is a happy ending to this part of the story.

Cedar Bridge has since been rebuilt, restoring one of Madison County's most beloved landmarks. The community's determination to preserve the bridge is a wonderful reminder that these aren't simply old structures—they are an important part of the area's history and identity


Hogback Covered Bridge



The Hogback Covered Bridge was built in 1884 by Harvey P. Jones and George K. Foster.

It measures 97 feet long and remains in its original location in a beautiful valley north of Winterset.



The name "Hogback" comes from the limestone ridge that forms the western end of the valley.

Of all the bridges, this one really gives you that feeling of being out in the Iowa countryside. There isn't a lot around it—just the bridge, the road, the landscape and the quiet.


When we visited, we also discovered something unexpected: a notebook left for visitors to sign.

Someone had left it there for people exploring the bridge to record their names and thoughts. I loved looking through it and seeing where the other visitors had come from. It was a small thing, but it made the experience feel personal—as if we were adding our names to a long line of travelers who had stopped there before us.





Roseman Covered Bridge


And then there is Roseman Covered Bridge, probably the one I most associated with The Bridges of Madison County.

Built in 1883 by Harvey P. Jones and George K. Foster, Roseman is 107 feet long and remains in its original location.




It was renovated in 1992 and became especially famous because of its role in both the novel and the movie.

In the story, Robert Kincaid is looking for Roseman Bridge when he stops at Francesca Johnson's home for directions. It is also the bridge where Francesca leaves her note inviting him to dinner.


When we arrived, there were other people photographing the bridge from the same general angle used in the movie.

That was one of those moments when the connection between the real place and the story suddenly became very real.

You're not just looking at an old covered bridge anymore.

You're standing in a place that became part of a story millions of people know.



Here is one of the scenes from the movie The Bridges of Madison County.


The Haunted Bridge

Roseman has another story that has nothing to do with Hollywood.

It is sometimes called the "haunted" bridge because of an old legend dating back to 1892.

According to the story, two sheriff's posses cornered a county jail escapee at the bridge. The man supposedly disappeared through the roof after letting out a wild cry. He was never found, and the legend grew that perhaps he must have been innocent if he could perform such an impossible escape.

Whether you believe the story or not, it certainly gives Roseman a little extra character.

Madison County currently promotes the bridges as part of the Covered Bridges Scenic Byway, and the county provides maps to help visitors find them. There are also events throughout the year, including the annual Madison County Covered Bridge Festival, which draws thousands of visitors to Winterset each October.

If you're a fan of The Bridges of Madison County, this is obviously a place you'll want to visit.

But even if you've never read the book or seen the movie, I think the bridges are worth the drive.

A Few Things to Know Before You Go

Plan for some driving. The bridges are spread throughout Madison County, and you'll be traveling rural roads between them.

Download or pick up a map. The Madison County Chamber provides a current map to the bridges, which makes planning your route much easier.

Fill up your gas tank. I learned this one firsthand. You're going to be traveling through some very rural areas, so don't start your bridge hunt with an almost-empty tank.

Bring water. Especially if you're visiting during the warmer months, it's a good idea to have water with you.

Give yourself plenty of time. We spent about two hours locating the bridges, and that didn't include stopping to really explore Winterset. If I were planning the trip today, I'd give myself at least a half day—and preferably a full day—to enjoy the bridges and the town.





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Destinations 2017. Bridges of Madison County, Iowa, ROAD TRIP, United States

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